A German Getaway

This fall we managed to escape for a whirlwind trip to Frankfurt, the famous Rhine River, the most charming Old World wine region and more. We saw a bit of everything; Old towns, castles, the steepest vineyards in the world, Christmas heaven, and sipped on the most delicious Riesling. Though our trip was short, the slow pace of the locations we visited managed to make it feel easy going and relaxing.

Day 1: Travel to Frankfurt with Condor

We look for nonstop flights whenever possible and Condor Airlines has direct flights out of SFO to their home base, Frankfurt. We were eager to check out their brand new long-haul A330neo aircraft! These new planes have tons of upgrades aside from their obvious exterior beachy vibe paint job. Their seats include large 4k screens that are super responsive and can even pair with your own bluetooth headphones. Seats are more spacious than standard planes and in the Premium Economy class, where we sat, there was noticeably more legroom, plus foot rests.

Once onboard we found a cute travel kit plus a water bottle at our seats. This was a nice touch as I always hate asking for more water throughout the flight. Shortly after we took off we were offered water and then drinks. Alcoholic drinks were included, so we had to start off with a glass of bubbly! During the flight we were served two hot meals and snacks as well.

All in all we had an enjoyable flight and were ready to go once we hit the ground. This was our first time navigating the Frankfurt airport and it was a bit confusing. There are two terminals that you can travel to and from via bus or sky tram, but it takes some time to get from one to the other. Unlike us, make sure that if you rent a car you rent from a company that is stationed in your arrival terminal. Lesson learned! After much walking around we made it to the car rental and headed to the hotel.

We arrived at 25Hours Hotel Frankfurt, The Goldman and were ready to settle in. This hotel was modern and clean with retro vibes. The mini fridge was stocked with beverages, all of which were included! We moseyed around the hotel and checked out their outdoor patio area which was a super cool place to enjoy a drink and unwind. On the first floor of the hotel there was an in-house bar and restaurant which we opted for since we were starting to feel the jet lag set in.

Day 2: Frankfurt’s Altstadt and Road Trip to the Rhine Region

After a very restful night at 25Hours Hotel Frankfurt, The Goldman, we headed downstairs for breakfast. They make coffee drinks to order, which was a nice surprise since we love a good latte. Their a delicious spread of hot and cold breakfast foods that will satisfy any traveler.

We decided to take a walk along the river to check out In Frankfurt’s Altstadt (old town). The charming shops made us feel like time travelers. It’s a great area to do some shopping, or just take a stroll to enjoy the architecture. Next we headed to the nearby Kleinmarkthalle (Market). This indoor market has various stalls with vendors selling fresh produce, baked goods, seafood, meats, and more! We picked up a few snacks and lunch for the road.

On our way to the next destination we made a stop in Bacharach. This town oozes small town Germany charm and we loved every ounce of it. On the top of the hill sits a castle turned hostel, which we decided warranted a visit. It is a steep but short climb and once there you are rewarded with beautiful views, and a German brew if you so desire. If you have the time, you can walk the outer city wall! We visited mid-day, mid-week and many of the shops were closed and the city was fairly quiet with the exception of some travelers and an elementary school field trip.

The vineyard views on the way to our final destination, the town of Boppard, were beautiful. Our hotel was situated right on the Rhine River, so after checking in we headed out to enjoy a German beer and take in the views.

Day 3: Hiking, a Rhine River Cruise and Wine Tasting

There are plenty of day hikes in the area around Boppard, but they weren’t as well marked as the parks here in the Bay Area. Admittedly, we did get a bit lost, but enjoyed some time out in nature anyways! The forests in the area are lush and beautiful! After our adventure we took a drive and enjoyed some great viewpoints such as this lovely view of the Mosel River from Brodenback viewpoint.

One of the highly recommended activities was a Rhine River cruise. From Boppard there were a couple of piers with tours of varying lengths departing throughout the day. You can choose a fancier dinner cruise or just a sightseeing tour. We opted for a two plus hour tour that brought us up the river, past lush hillside vineyards, darling towns and numerous castles to the Lorely and back. We sipped Rhine Region Riesling and enjoyed the breeze from the top deck.

Once back on solid ground we walked around the town of Boppard. It is a pretty quiet and sleepy little town in the off season but is a great home base and is easily walkable. We found a great wine garden to enjoy some more local wines. Compared to US prices, wines in Germany are extremely affordable and generously poured. Glasses averaged about $3-4 euro each.

Day 4: Burg Eltz Castle to the Mosel Valley Wine Region

On day 4 of our trip we headed to the Mosel Valley, one of Germany’s famous wine regions. Along the way we made a pit stop at the famous Burg Eltz Castle. From the parking lot you can take a shuttle (2 euro) or opt to walk 1.3km to the castle from the lot. Although it isn’t a far walk we would recommend wearing comfortable shoes since there is a bit of varying terrain and it is unpaved through the forest. The views of the castle as you are approaching are pretty magical and the walkway to the castle is a beautiful sight. Admission and tour of the castle is 14 euro for adults and less for children, students and seniors. They often have tours in English which last around 40 minutes. Photos are not allowed inside of the castle, but you will visit a number of rooms in the castle that will give you a good idea of what it was like to live there years ago.

After our castle visit we headed to Cochem, one of the main cities in the Mosel region. It was pretty bustling with tourists when we arrived mid-afternoon. We hadn’t eaten lunch yet and restaurant pickings were extremely thin at that hour since many places close between lunch and dinner. After grabbing a bite in a cafe we meandered around and saw so many wine tasting shops! Wine was plentiful, even available in a street vending machine! We hunkered down in a gem of a wine bar, Alte Gutsschänke. Even from the outside it looks like it’s out of a storybook. Once you get inside and take a few steps down into the cellar you’ll be transported to the old world. Great wines, friendly service and a memorable experience.

We moved on from Cochem to Ediger-Eller, our final destination for the evening. Certainly not as busy as Cochem, it is a quiet town with a more local feel.

Day 5: Germany’s Longest Hanging Rope Bridge and Steepest Vineyard in the World

On day 5 we started our day off with a short hike/walk to the longest hanging rope bridge in Germany: Geierlay. There are two different parking lots with different paths that lead you to the bridge. One parking lot is closer to the “hiking” path and leads you through a small forested area, while the other is flatter and stroller friendly for those who require a less strenuous path. Upon arriving at the bridge we were greeted with a majestic sight of the bridge hanging across the valley! It’s a very sturdy bridge that barely sways in the wind, but is still very exciting to cross! It takes a good 10 or so minutes to cross to the other side depending on how fast you’re walking. On the other side they had a small coffee/ice cream truck that was perfect for grabbing a drink or snack.

We were getting a bit hungry after getting back to our car and decided to stop by the cute town of Beilstein for lunch. Beilstein turned out to be our favorite small town that we visited. It has easy access, a leisurely feel, abundance of wine tasting rooms, and of course picture perfect houses with flowers at every turn! We chose a cafe with outdoor seating and enjoyed our meal while people watching.

After relaxing for a bit we headed to Neef, where the steepest vineyards in the world can be found. It’s hard to imagine how they care for the vines and harvest on these steep hills! We got lucky that the Neef Wine Fest was happening the weekend we were visiting so we decided to check it out. The town of Neef is rather small, so the wine fest was nice and quaint with a few stops scattered throughout town. Most served wine and food pairings. We enjoyed the stroll and small town feel of Neef.

Day 6: Drive to Rothenburg- the most famous German Small Town

We woke up to a gorgeous and mystical morning on the river before before we packed up to leave the area. We then drove 4 hours east to the most famous German Small Town of Rothernburg. Rothernburg is known for its charming cobblestone streets lined with very well preserved medieval homes, and intact city wall. Located on the Romance trail, the town is frequented by tour groups and get very crowded during the daytime. We opted to stay for a night so we could experience the town when the crowds were gone. This was where the true charm of the city really came through with it’s Christmas Shops, beautiful town square, town wall, famous Plönlein intersection, teddy bear shops, and fortified city walls.

Day 7: Rothenburg Tower and a stay at Kempinski Hotel

After visiting one of Rothenburg’s many bakeries for breakfast, we made the trek up the Rothenburg Town Hall tower to get a bird’s eye view of the town. A lot of stair climbing is involved and the last few flights are a tight squeeze, but overall not too bad of a climb! The view from the top is gorgeous and worth the effort! Beautiful views and a panoramic view of the town square below. The entrance fee is 2.5 Euros (paid at the top of the tower). Our visit to the tower took 30 minutes to climb to the top and back down to the bottom. After grabbing Rothenburg’s most famous baked good, a Schneeballen for the road, we headed to Kempinski Hotel near Frankfurt for our final night in Germany.

Kempinski Hotel is located just south of the Frankfurt main city area and 15 minutes from the Frankfurt airport. The hotel is situated on a huge piece of land filled with tall trees, green lawns, and their own lake and fountain. The lobby is beautifully decorated with a full bar and lounge seating. This hotel is famous for their beautiful indoor and outdoor heated swimming pools, spa, on site restaurants, peaceful well equipped rooms, and amazing service.

Day 8: The Most Amazing Buffet Breakfast and Condor Flight Back to SFO

A stay at Kempinski Hotel includes an amazing buffet breakfast. They had different rooms full of any breakfast item you could imagine. Fresh made to order omelets, an oatmeal station with over 20 different toppings, a cold cut station, and a champagne bar just to name a few. After sipping the last of our coffee, we packed the car for our return flight on SFO! We were lucky to have seats in Condor’s Premium Economy which were comfortable and roomy. We settled into our seats for 12 hour flight home and were able to get some rest, enjoy their meals, and their complimentary movie offerings on board. The perfect way to end our trip!

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